Mark Roche is a long-term resident of Kaohsiung, Taiwan. In 1998, he founded Blue Skies Adventures with the purpose of introducing foreigners to the wonders of Taiwan’s outdoors. In 2021, he became the first Irishman to complete the Top 100 peaks of Taiwan. He works as a hiking and cycling logistics expert with extensive experience in both on and off-road riding. At present, Mark Roche and Nathan Miller, alongside other cycling enthusiasts, are in the process of creating a “Top 100” list of bike routes around Taiwan; a unique endeavor which is not known to exist for any other country in the world. Information about this can be found HERE.
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Episode 079 – Kaohsiung to Pingtung Traverse (County Road No. 185)
Location: Kaohsiung City (高雄市) / Pingtung County (屏東縣)
Distance: 90 km
Elevation Gain: 415–600 m (approx.)
Strava Data: Oct. 8, 2022; Nov. 25–26, 2021
In previous posts (#071–#074 and #077–#078), we outlined routes traversing from Hsinchu (新竹) in northern Taiwan to Kaohsiung in the south, following the hills that run parallel to the Central Mountain Range (中央山脈). These routes offer an excellent alternative to the more congested and heavily populated West Coast.
This is the seventh installment presenting what we consider a far more enjoyable—and far less crowded—way to travel north–south, away from the dull Cycle Route No. 1 often promoted by less imaginative planners.
One drawback of this route is that it begins in a fairly remote location. We assume riders attempting it are undertaking a multi-day traverse. If public transportation access is required, Kaohsiung City (高雄市) is the logical starting point; this section of the route is covered in detail in Episode #044.
Cyclists in southern Taiwan will already be familiar with County Road No. 185 (縣道185號), which runs parallel to the Central Mountains. While mostly flat, its importance lies in the multiple access points it provides into mountain areas and Indigenous communities, which are outlined below.
Our starting point is the 0 km marker of County Road No. 185. Immediately on the left is the trailhead for Weiliao Mountain (尾寮山), one of Taiwan’s Small 100 Peaks (小百岳). Road conditions here are excellent, reflecting its role as a primary transport corridor between mountain villages.
This section passes through Rukai Indigenous territory (魯凱族), while areas further south are predominantly Paiwan (排灣族). The route is rich in Indigenous art and iconography. At the 7.5 km mark, a turnoff leads to Qingshan Village (青山村) and onward to Sea God Palace (海神宮), a popular riverside recreation spot and an ideal place to cool off during summer.
Continuing south, the first major resupply point is Sandimen (三地門) at approximately 25 km. A left turn here leads into the mountains and marks the start of the climb featured in Episode #015, while a short distance further south is the start of Episode #021.
Stopping at almost any restaurant in this area guarantees excellent Indigenous cuisine. About 10 km further along, a left-hand turn leads to Wanan Riverside Park (萬安溪河濱公園), another pleasant spot for cooling off in the river.
As the ride continues south, cyclists should watch for dedicated bike paths on both sides of the road. These appear in segments rather than as a continuous route. Over the next 30 km, two additional left turns from County Road No. 185 connect to routes featured in Episodes #017 and #019.
County Road No. 185 ends after 69 km, where it intersects with Provincial Highway No. 1 (省道台1線) at Fangliao (枋寮). Fangliao is a major town and the southernmost railway station before the line crosses into Taitung (台東). Accommodation options are plentiful.
We conclude this ride at Fenggang (楓港), approximately 20 km south of Fangliao. From here, riders can either turn left onto Provincial Highway No. 9 (省道台9線) toward Taitung, or continue south on Provincial Highway No. 26 (省道台26線) toward Kenting (墾丁), as covered in Episode #041.
